Viva Barcelona ... !

Last November, as part of the wine training courses The Wine Guide runs for Triple S Consultancy, I spent a week training the crew of M.Y. Pelorus. The below is a bunch of rants and raves that I managed to jot down on some of the places I had a chance to visit. Barcelona is sitting high in my 'top 5' best cities in the world list. I love this town and the best way to enjoy it, is to be prepared and know where to go.


Night one
I can't remember the last time I took myself out for dinner; perhaps I've been blessed with good company. Still, as I find myself flying solo in Barcelona on business, the solo option doesn't seem as intimidating or lonesome as one would expect. You just can't help love this town; it's built for solo dining.


But, as I lean on the bar at La Vinya del Senyor staring as this delicious pile of freshly sliced Iberico ham, it dawns on me the issues I'm going to face tonight. Yes, I could devour it all, it is and would be delicious and yes I'm thinking about it but restraint Mr Sims restraint. There are more dishes to go and a strategy must be employed. (Plus the looks of - 'are you seriously going to eat all that?' are starting to freak me out). Something small next ...


Oh my god ... Anchovies, how I love thee... Let me count the ways in which I want you inside me. For now, you are simply wrapped around a black olive drizzled in oil so you're covered in a glistening sheen, you are simply irresistible ... Dos per favor. With a half glass of Manuela de Naveran Chardonnay from Penedes on the side, it's a good start to the night.

Where next?

Santa Caterina Cuines adjoins the bustling market next door, super fresh produce is a given. This is a tapas bar/come restaurant and it caters for Barcelona cool, the Tres Chic and Wallpaper Guide tragics much like myself, and the modern American couple opposite me. This is tapas with a modern twist, an edge, a funk and I like it. This is the first time I've been here at night and I kind of miss the hustle of the market and the streams of people begging for a table. Still, the bar is good, so I have more anchovies (I'm addicted) but also indulge in some croquettes and fried sardines. Not too much though; real dinner awaits. I move on.


When was the last time you had butterflys in your stomach in anticipation of a meal? Its been a long time, but it is all part of the Cal Pep experience. Add to that, the sheer euphoria one feels when seated on a stool at the bar of this Barcelona icon. You're in, you've made it, and you're about to have the most classic, awesome, authentic tapas experience and its literally happening now. Awesome.


Perhaps it was because I cruised past earlier and bumped into the front men casually standing outside talking and asked them about solo dining, perhaps because they took pity on a lonely traveler, but the end result was yet again another phenomenal experience. This time, as I take my place at the bar, I'm told they're ordering for me. And not in the arrogant wanker waiter 'I know best so shut up' way, but the 'trust me, I'll take care of care of you and show you what we do' way. My excitement is joined by confidence as the gastronomic onslaught opens with the clams and Jamon. So salty, so fresh, so good. Then, snap fried whitebait, gambas and calamari followed by a fish stew, followed by super fresh mushrooms and sausage, the hits keep on coming. Get here early, stand in line and wait; its worth it.


Night Two
With a red roped bollard out front blocking the entrance and Michael Jackson telling me to 'Beat It', you cant help but get the feeling you just ain't cool enough for Inopia. Well, you're not, and nor will you ever be, but it doesn't matter 'cos they'll let you in and feed you anyway. Inopia oozes cool, oozes it. And not in the 'look at me I'm fabulous' way, more the 'I just am, so deal with it' way.

The brain child of Albert Adria, older brother to Ferran of El Bulli fame, the food is very much in line with the decor. Cool, modern and highly polished and does not disappoint. Slightly seared slice of Tuna on a crouton with a hint of mustard and garlic, and a drizzle of disco olive oil is a simply brilliant opener. Followed by tomatoes in perfect cubes lightly covered in oil with a diced herb. Is it tarragon? Thyme? Whatever, it's an unusually amazing flavour that mixes with the pimenton base seamlessly. Now normally Airy-fairy crunchy bread just bloody annoys me, in fact I find it down right infuriating, but the lighter than air crunch adds edge to the dish. Tick; another winner.

And now, to the Croquettes that are super crisp that once cracked, drinking the contents looks like an option. That's not to say it's a runny, syrupy mess, it's more like my favourite type of mash potato. You know, 1 part potato, 3 parts cream; me likey. Now 'perfectly formed' is not what I often use to describe a prawn but tonight, I'll make an exception. Because I have to, 'cos they are. Lightly dusted and sprinkled in sea salt then fried just enough as these little buggers are so bloody fresh they hardly need it. These are perfect little morsels of deliciousness. There may be a fine line between cliche and cool but yes MJ, I agree and couldn't say it better myself, 'Thriller'.

In stark contrast, I mosey on down the road to Quimet e Quimet. This hole in the wall off the beaten track bar is a destination as well as a journey. I love the contrast between these two places, from too cool for school, to just cool. It is literally standing room for only around 20 odd people but the service is swift, effective and the tapas are gold. I've gone from ultra modern tapas to ultra traditional in the space of a few blocks, I love the contrast. Huge anchovies and green olives on toast, mussels topped with caviar all washed down with their own specially brewed beer. Gold.


Night Three
This is now my third time to Tapas 24, and I can't help but feel I've earned 'local' rights considering it's all been in the space of 4 weeks. Yes, I love this place. Not just for the brilliant food but the experiences I've shared. But, I have to admit, they had me at 'Mc Foie Burguer' (sic). Closely followed by a Bikini (warm sandwich) of Jamon, truffles and buffalo mozzerella. Hello...! Fried boquerones anchovies that have been marinated with lemon and oil... Need I say more? Squid ink risotto that's salty, black and brilliant and then onto the roulette of padrons. So much to choose and so good.

Tapas 24 is the offshoot of Carles Abellan's super modern Comerc 24., this is the more affordable, and less fussy version. I love it, and is well worth making a detour for. A 'must see' addition to any itinerary when visiting Barcelona.

Post dinner, I'm glad its mainly down hill all the way which perhaps makes think of a final stop off at El Xampanyet for a glass of cava and a couple more tapas is a good idea. This is a great drinking hole, with the room adorned with classic moisac blue tiles. This is a great place to either start and/or finish a night off. For me, it finishes me off.

But of course I walk past Xocoa on my way to the hotel and simply must have a little chocolately thing before retiring for bed. What to choose? Best bet is to grab a selection but then, come back when you're sober and buy some more. The packaging of the chocolates here is brilliant.

Bed time ...


Other Places Worth Checking Out & Visited Previously
Cata 1.81 A little tucked away but a pretty cool, modern spot
Monvinic Brilliant and incredibly impressive wine bar. You have to go just to check out the electronic wine list
Dulcinea - The best hot chocolate and churros in the World!
Flash Flash - Haven't actually been there personally but comes highly recommended and open on Sundays.
Mercat de La Boqueria - Famous market off the Ramblas. Perch on a stool at the 'Bar del La Boqueria' for one of the best cheap lunches you will ever have.
Hotel Omm - Cool Hotel Bar and restaurant. Good for a first stop.

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