The Masahiko Iga Sake Experience ...

Until recently, if someone had asked me to 'describe the best Sake you've ever had', I'd probably have shrugged my shoulders and replied '...ugh, not bad'. Not exactly an enthusiastic response. So whose fault is it then? The Sake? Or could my limited experience of this most Japanese of beverages be to blame? Well, thanks to a recent Sake dinner, the latter was definitely proved.

On May 4th, Sommeliers Australia, in conjunction with Hanabishi Restaurant, held a special dinner enabling a few lucky members to taste a range of incredibly unique and rare Sakes. Hosted by Hanabishi's Masahiko Iga (possible the world's nicest guy - seriously), a few of Melbourne's 'Top Gun' sommeliers and one Michael Ryan, strapped themselves in for a night of sake discovery (cue tacky 'excitement music' now). A brilliant line-up of various styles was prepared alongside a super menu specially created for each individual sake.


To kick things off, we were seated to a blind tasting of 3 sakes. The question was asked; were they the same, different, high or low quality and in what order? Given a few minutes to taste, notes were taken, sake sipped, and thoughts were pondered. It was a fascinating exercise to say the least. For me, the first was what I would call a 'classic example' of sake, or perhaps more accurately, what I would come to expect. The second was clearly a step up showing more precision, focus and more subtle aromatics. The final sake was the favourite in the line up showing the most complexity, elegance, persistence and subtle power of the three. Masa quickly explained the reasoning behind the exercise, as the progression of styles was to highlight the importance of the milling of the grain. Though all Junmai-Daiginjo level sakes (from Dassai) the difference was pronounced. No doubt due to the 50%, 39% and 23% milling of the rice (the % represents how much of the grain remains after the milling).

No, I'm not going to explain how sake is made here, but I can tell you the quality and milling of the rice, purity of water and Koji all play significant roles in quality sake production. If you want to know more about production methods, click here. Also, you can download Masa's detailed booklet here as it not only gives you details on the sakes tasted, but the menu also.

It would be remiss not to mention the great effort in which Masa and his kitchen team went matching the appropriate food with each sake. Hanabishi, for me, is an all round quiet achiever. Situated near the 'colourful end' of King Street (ahem), the food has a humble, honest complexity backed by a strong focus on sourcing the best produce it can. Provenance of produce is paramount, and it shows. If you haven't been to Hanabishi recently, I'd encourage you to make the effort. Masa (bless him) will take good care of you.


Below are my tasting notes on the sakes we tasted throughout the evening, and in the order in which they were served.

Shirakawago 'Sasanigori' Jumai-Ginjo
Slightly cloudy in colour. The aroma shows an almost fermenting character mixed with a nutty, dare I say 'rice' element. The texture is richer than the others and whilst somewhat challenging on its own, matches well with sweet corn soup.

Born 'Chogin' Junmai-Daiginjo
A unique and special sake Masa brought in himself. Made for the Emperor of Japan, a bottle was given to President Obama when he visited. Aged for 5 years at minus 8 degrees, this is about as Grand Cru as it gets. Layered, perfumed aroma of white flowers and rose with a touch of citrus oil. The longer it sits in the glass, the more expressive it becomes. Super fresh on the palate with an intriguingly long and complex finish. Super stuff.

Juyondai 'Shichitare Nijitkan' Junmai-Daiginjo
Made by a process called 'Tobindori' which, in wine speak, you could say is the 'free run'. More obvious aromatics than previous, richer, more depth of flavour. Banana skin and almond aromas mixed with an almost salty, mineral backbone. The palate is complex, powerful, savoury and whilst quite weighty, the finish remains refined and light footed. Another big favourite.

Dassai 'Funabakumi' Junmai-Daiginjo
An un-pasteurized sake style called 'Nama-Sake'. Immediately more forward than the others showing an almost smokey, reductive nose. A mix of fresh apples, with a few bruised notes and florals with a slightly sharper edged mouthfeel. Though more forward, it needs food to fully expressive itself.

Daishichi 'Minowamon' Junmai-Daiginjo
Made with 'wild yeasts' the aromas seem more colourful, fresh and lively. The textural component is the differentiating factor with this sake as its almost silky. Rounded palate and again, good with food.

Daishichi 'Junmai Kimoto' Junmai-Shu
The only sake served warm (and very gently). The hardest to describe aromatically probably due to the temperature. What is accentuated is the palate weight, which made it a great example to match with the wagyu beef. An interesting style, though not my favourite.

Hanahato 'Shiori' Aged 8 years Junmai-Shu
Tawny in colour with a distinctive rancio, almost beef stock/French onion soup like aroma. Palate is a little more inviting with a touch of caramel, though a somewhat confronting bitter edge to the finish. Certainly a curio but I think I'll stick to 'fresh is best'.

Photos courtesy of Mike Itaya

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