STOP APOLOGISING AUSTRALIA!

A reaction to hearing that a top Australian restaurant, frequented by tourists, was only serving imported wine by the glass

It seems that our recently departed Prime Minister may have started something beyond his control, when this country's long overdue apology to the Koori nation was delivered at the start of his term. It was a great idea, but has it spilt out into the general population and made us acutely aware, and apologetic for, our Australianness? Is our cultural cringe getting the better of us? Is it possible that we feel we aren't good enough to use the words 'great' and 'Australian wine' in the same sentence? The time has come to recognise the hard work being done by some of the most progressive and exciting winemakers in the world, and many of them are here, at home, doing a great job, and are then left scratching their heads as to why they are not getting support in many high profile restaurants across the country.

If you are a wine drinker and follow what has been happening to Australia's damn fine reputation in the UK and US over the last few years, you will know that writers and consumers have been dropping our drops like flies, and looking to our competitors for high quality wine at low prices. The previously stodgy 'Old World' has cleaned up their act, and countries like France, Italy and Spain have got groovy baby, churning out good value wine with a sense of place at very competitive prices. Add to this the growing popularity of the wines of Argentina and Chile, not to mention the ludicrously low prices at which they can be produced, and the very thing that made Australia famous is becoming the domain of the rest of the world.

Why did Australian wine take a hammering with regard to its reputation? The answer is complex and multi-layered, but essentially we got involved in a discounting war that only one party could win, and it was not the producers of Australian wine. Demand increased and ridiculously low prices were asked for by the supermarkets and big players, and in our enthusiasm to provide what the market asked for, we continued to plant vast tracts of vines in areas that could only ever produce 'vin ordinare' at such low prices. Quality was compromised, so wine writers and consumers alike started to experience and dislike a monotone product that was readily at hand. Unfortunately this oversimplified model told the world one story that became the whole story, yet these wines don't even scratch the surface in telling the full report of Australian wine, its depth of character and wonderful diversity.

Do not get me wrong, I love great examples of wines from anywhere around the world, but Australia has a right to expect a fair amount of support at home. So it is time to look forward and not back, and let's start celebrating our history, heritage and, yes, tradition, and for the love of God stop saying sorry for their unique 'full of the sun' qualities. This is what people fell in love with in the first place! Surely not everyone was wrong when they rushed to Tesco and Sainsbury to get their fill of good value Aussie booze in the first place. The Australian wine industry has an opportunity to go abroad and talk animatedly about vineyards that span three centuries, and about Chardonnays that are as electric and exciting as some of the most expensive Burgundies produced in France.

In my opinion, Australian wine has never been better, as we move away from overripe, numbingly alcoholic and heavily oaked behemoths, and back to wines that complement the table and the food that sits on them. Sommeliers these days are literally spoilt for choice. Laziness, immaturity or an old-fashioned sense of reverence may be the reasons that they look abroad for excitement, but sometimes the greatest joy of all is discovering a gem close to home, that is yet to see the light of day. If you manage to do just that, then scream it from the hilltops, stick your chest out and say, 'I'm proud that our vast country is able to produce such characterful, delicious and uniquely Australian wine, and you should be too.'

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Australia Wine Sommelier

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